New: the Tarka guide to better biryani rice

SEASONAL TABLE

Ramadan & Eid

Food for quiet sehris, crowded iftars and the generous days of Eid.

In Pakistan, the iftar that breaks each day’s fast during Ramadan is its own kind of meal. Dates and a cold drink come first, then fried snacks such as pakoras and samosas, fruit chaat and chana chaat, and often a fuller dinner after the evening prayer. Sehri, eaten before dawn, is usually simpler: paratha, eggs, yoghurt or leftovers, and plenty of water.

The two Eids bring different food. Eid al-Fitr, at the end of Ramadan, is known for sweets, above all sheer khurma, offered to every visitor. Eid al-Adha centres on qurbani meat, which is shared with relatives and people in need and cooked over the following days into karahi, pulao, nihari and barbecue. The recipes below suit both seasons.

Iftar snacks, Eid mains and desserts

A bowl of crisp vegetable pakoras

Vegetarian

Spinach Pakora

Chopped spinach and onion in a thick, spiced gram-flour batter, fried in spoonfuls until crisp and eaten straight away.

Street food

By Ayesha Iftikhar

35 min
Two samosas on a leaf

Vegetarian

Vegetable Samosa

A firm, flaky pastry made with plenty of fat, wrapped around a spiced potato and pea filling and fried slowly until crisp.

Street food

By Ayesha Iftikhar

2 hr
Dahi puri topped with yoghurt and chutney

Vegetarian

Dahi Puri

Crisp, hollow puri shells cracked open and filled with potato and chickpeas, then cool sweet yoghurt, chutneys and sev.

Street food

By Ayesha Iftikhar

20 min
Haleem topped with fried onions, coriander, chilli and lime

Beef

Haleem

A slow-cooked wheat-and-lentil porridge with shredded meat, finished with fried onions, lemon and coriander — traditionally cooked for large gatherings.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

12 hr 15 min
A bowl of beef nihari garnished with ginger, served with naan

Beef

Beef Nihari

A slow-simmered breakfast stew of bone-in shank and toasted spices, thickened with wheat flour and finished with ginger and lemon.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

4 hr 55 min
Chicken biryani on a plate with raita and lemon

Rice

Chicken Biryani

Layered chicken biryani: a yoghurt-marinated chicken masala under 70%-done basmati, finished together on sealed low heat so every grain stays separate.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

2 hr 20 min
A meat karahi garnished with coriander, from a Lahore tikka house

Mutton

Mutton Karahi

Bone-in mutton cooked down with tomatoes, ginger, garlic and green chillies in a wide karahi until the masala clings to the meat.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

1 hr 55 min
A bowl of rice kheer topped with nuts

Desserts

Kheer

Rice pudding simmered slowly in milk until it thickens and takes on a faint caramel note, finished with nuts and saffron.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

1 hr 20 min
A tall glass of falooda with rose syrup and basil seeds

Drinks

Falooda

Rose syrup, soaked basil seeds and soft vermicelli layered with chilled milk and topped with kulfi or ice cream.

Street food

By Ayesha Iftikhar

20 min