New: the Tarka guide to better biryani rice

Whole spice

Cumin

Also known as: Zeera, safed zeera (Cuminum cyminum)

Cumin seeds, close up
Photo: Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

What is Cumin?

Cumin is the everyday warming spice behind Pakistani tarka, rice dishes and kebab spice blends.

What does it taste like?

Earthy, warm and nutty, with a slightly bitter edge that mellows and deepens once the seeds hit hot oil.

How Pakistanis use it

Whole cumin is the most common seed used in a tarka, bloomed in hot ghee or oil at the start or end of a lentil or vegetable dish. Ground cumin is folded into kebab and karahi spice mixes, and toasted whole seeds are stirred through raita and rice dishes for texture and aroma.

Cooking with it

For a tarka, heat the oil until a seed sizzles immediately, then let the cumin darken by a shade; blackened cumin is bitter. Bhuna zeera, dry-roasted and ground cumin, is the version used in raita, chaat and pani puri water. Do not confuse it with shahi zeera or kala zeera, a thinner, darker and sweeter seed used in some biryanis and in garam masala.

Where to buy it

Sold whole or ground almost everywhere; whole seeds hold their aroma longer and are worth seeking out over pre-ground cumin.

Substitutes

Ground coriander can stand in for warmth in a pinch, though it lacks cumin's earthiness and the two don't taste alike side by side.

Storage

Store whole seeds in an airtight container and grind only what is needed in small batches, since ground cumin loses aroma within weeks.

Recipes using Cumin

A bowl of beef nihari garnished with ginger, served with naan

Beef

Beef Nihari

A slow-simmered breakfast stew of bone-in shank and toasted spices, thickened with wheat flour and finished with ginger and lemon.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

4 hr 55 min
Chicken pulao on a serving platter

Rice

Chicken Pulao

Rice cooked directly in chicken stock with whole spices — a gentler, even-handed alternative to biryani, without the layering.

By Ayesha Iftikhar

1 hr 20 min